dandri/unleashed-firmware
1
0 Fork 0
mirror of https://github.com/DarkFlippers/unleashed-firmware.git synced 2026-11-13 12:37:33 +00:00
Code Issues Packages Projects Releases Wiki Activity
Files
cb2c8218bbe111761b802d4fdfd846954bc64dff
unleashed-firmware/documentation/SubGHzRemoteProg.md
T
MX 840cb4e69b subghz add hiland support
2026-11-07 03:47:33 +03:00

68 KiB
Raw Blame History

Using the Flipper as a new Sub-GHz remote

This guide is about making the Flipper into a brand new remote that you register in your gate, garage or blind receiver - the same way you would register a spare remote you bought in a shop.

It is not about cloning, and for the systems in this guide that matters:

  • Rolling code (dynamic) remotes - BFT, Erreka, FAAC, Nice, CAME Atomo, Somfy, KeeLoq and the rest of this guide. Every press sends a new code from a counter, and the receiver only accepts a counter that moved forward. A clone shares the original's counter, so the two fight over it - whichever one you pressed last works, and the other needs several presses to catch up. That is why you make a new remote instead: it gets its own serial and counter, and lives alongside your original ones.
  • Static (fixed) code remotes - CAME 12/24 bit, Nice Flo, Princeton, Marantec, Holtek, Roger, Gate TX and the other static protocols. There is no counter, so cloning is fine here - a copy is simply identical to the original and both keep working, forever, in any order. Just read the remote with SubGHz -> Read and save it. You do not need this guide for those, unless you want a remote with its own separate code.

So: if your remote is static, read and save it. If it is rolling code, find your system below.

Read this first

What Add Manually does. SubGHz -> Add Manually builds a brand new remote with a randomly generated serial number and saves it as a file. Nothing is sent until you open that file and press a key. Your original remotes are not touched.

If your system is not in this guide, the Flipper may still support it. Open SubGHz -> Add Manually and scroll the list. If your brand is there, create a remote and follow the programming steps from your receiver's own manual - this guide only collects the ones people have already worked out. The full protocol list is in SubGHzSupportedSystems.md.

Read and Add Manually are different jobs. Read captures and replays a remote you already have. Add Manually creates a new remote that can be registered in the receiver. Many protocols support Read only.

The Flipper's keys are the original remote's buttons. When a remote file is open:

Flipper key What it sends
OK / centre (shown as Send) the remote's main button
Up / Down / Left / Right arrows the remote's other buttons

Which arrow is which depends on the protocol. Where a receiver wants a hidden or programming button - a recessed pin hole, two buttons held together, pads you bridge inside the case - the Flipper sends it as one single key press. Each section below tells you which key that is, and there is a full table in Programming / hidden button reference.

Hold the key down. The Flipper transmits only while a key is held. A quick tap often sends an incomplete code. Hold for 1-3 seconds unless a step says otherwise.

Timing matters. Most receivers open a programming window of 5, 10 or 30 seconds. Read the whole procedure before you start so you are not reading it while the window is closing.

Warning

On many receivers, holding the programming button too long erases every remote the receiver knows, not just one. If that happens you have to re-register all of your original remotes. When a step says "about 1 second", do not hold it for five.

Note

A step ending in Done! has been confirmed working. A step ending in Done? comes from the manufacturer's manual but nobody has reported back yet - it should work, tell us in the issues tab if it does not.

Add Manually [Advanced] is the second menu entry, right under Add Manually. Use it when you need to type values in by hand instead of getting a random serial. After you pick the type it asks for SERIAL, BUTTON, COUNTER and, on protocols that use one, SEED - all in hex.

Find your system
Alutech AT4N AN-Motors AT4 Aprimatic TR
Beninca ARC (TO.GO) BFT Mitto CAME Atomo
Cardin S449 DEA Mio Ditec GOL4
DoorHan Erreka IRIS FAAC RC, XT
FAAC SLH Genius (SLH) Genius TX4RC
Hormann EcoStar Jarolift KingGates Stylo 4k
Mhouse Nice Flor S Nice O-Code
Nice One Nice Smilo Security+ 1.0 / 2.0
Somfy Keytis Somfy Telis Sommer
V2 Phoenix (Phox)

Not listed? See Programming / hidden button reference - it covers every other entry in the Add Manually menu.

Alutech AT4N (AN-Motors)

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Alutech AT4N 433MHz

This is for boards with a display and F, CL, +, - buttons. If your board has a Learn button instead, use AN-Motors AT4.

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box, find the F button and hold it for ~3 sec - the display shows Pr
  3. Press F a few more times until the display shows Lr
  4. With + / - pick a free remote number. A number that already has a remote on it shows a red dot in the bottom right corner
  5. Press Send on the Flipper one time - the display flashes and a red dot appears next to that number
  6. Hold F on the receiver board for ~3 sec to leave programming mode
  7. Done!

Video walkthrough, also shows other board types (Russian)

AN-Motors AT4

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> AN-Motors AT4 433MHz

This is for older boards with a Learn button. If your board has no Learn button but has F, CL, +, -, use Alutech AT4N instead.

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box, find the Learn button and click it one time - the led turns on
  3. Press Send on the Flipper one time - the led on the receiver board turns off
  4. Press Send again - the led starts flashing, wait a couple of seconds until it turns off
  5. Done!

Video walkthrough (Russian)

Aprimatic TR

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Aprimatic 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xF (on the original remote this is all 4 buttons held together)
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. On your existing remote that already works with the receiver, push all 4 buttons at the same time
  3. The receiver makes a continuous beep
  4. Press Send on the Flipper and hold for ~2 sec
  5. Wait until the receiver stops beeping
  6. Done?

Beninca ARC (TO.GO)

  • Also sold as: TO.GO 2VA / TO.GO 4VA (previously TO.GO 2WV / 4WV) - receivers WB, WI, and receivers built into the control panel
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Beninca ARC 433MHz
  • Programming key: Down Arrow = 0x0, the hidden button

On a 2 button original remote the hidden button means holding both buttons at once, which is awkward or impossible to do reliably. On the Flipper it is just the Down Arrow.

With a remote that already works - receivers WB / WI

  1. Stand close to the receiver
  2. Open the file of the remote that already works, press Down Arrow and hold ~3 sec - the hidden function is now active (on an original remote its led blinks at this point)
  3. Within 5 seconds press Send on that same remote, for the channel you want to share
  4. Within 5 seconds open your new remote file and press Send - this is the button that will control that channel
  5. The receiver leaves programming mode, test the new remote
  6. Done?

With a remote that already works - receiver built into the control panel

Here the hidden button has to be sent from both remotes:

  1. Already working remote: Down Arrow, then Send within 5 seconds
  2. New remote: Down Arrow, then Send within 5 seconds
  3. Done?

Note

ARC and HCS (Rolling Code) remotes cannot share one receiver. The first remote you save decides which type the receiver will accept from then on. Changing it needs a full receiver reset.

BFT Mitto

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> BFT Mitto 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xF (on the original this is the pin hole on the back, or buttons 1+2 held together)

Note

Newer BFT Mitto remotes make their Seed from the serial, so a normal SubGHz -> Read decodes them on the fly - they show up as KL: BFT straight away, with no Seed to find.

Other models, especially older ones, have a unique Seed and read as KL: Unknown until you have it. There are only two ways to recover it:

With a remote that already works

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Stand at least 3 meters from the receiver
  3. Original remote: press the hidden button on the back with a pin or paper clip, OR press buttons 1 & 2 together, until the remote's led lights up
  4. Original remote: briefly press the button that opens the device
  5. On the Flipper, long press Right Arrow (0xF - Btn:F) for 3-5 sec
  6. Press the button on the Flipper that you want to use for opening the device
  7. Press Right Arrow again
  8. Done?

With access to the receiver box

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver board box
  3. Watch this video first - it shows the board side of the procedure
  4. On the Flipper, long press Right Arrow (0xF - Btn:F) for 3-5 sec. This acts exactly like holding buttons 1 & 2 on the original remote as shown in the video
  5. Done?

Making a full clone instead (reads the Seed off your original)

Caution

This makes a copy that fights with your original remote. Both use the same counter, so whichever one you press last works and the other needs several presses to catch up. Your original may even stop working until it is re-registered at the receiver board.

Only do this if the original is broken or worn out and you want the Flipper to replace it. To simply add the Flipper as an extra remote, use one of the two procedures above instead.

  1. Open SubGHz -> Read on your Flipper
  2. On the original remote only: hold every button at the same time - on a 2 button remote hold both, on a 4 button remote hold the two in the top row - or press the hidden button on the back with a pin
  3. You receive a signal. Open it and look at Fix: - it starts with F, for example F00F1C9B. The leading F is the button code, meaning "programming button pressed"
  4. The Hop: value of that same signal is your Seed
  5. Write the Hop value down and replace its first digit F with 0
  6. Now press the button on your remote that you actually want to clone, and read that signal
  7. Write down its Fix: value. Its first digit matches the Btn: shown for that signal
  8. Create the remote: SubGHz -> Add Manually [Advanced] -> BFT Mitto 433MHz, then enter:
    • SERIAL - the Fix from step 7 with its first digit replaced by 0
    • BUTTON - the first digit of that Fix (the one you just replaced)
    • COUNTER - FF F9
    • SEED - the value from step 5
  9. A high counter like FF F9 jumps past your original remote's current counter. That is what makes the clone work immediately - and what desyncs the original

Or edit a saved file instead of typing values in. Save the signal of your original remote (an older remote with a unique Seed is listed as KL: Unknown), copy the file to a PC and add these two lines after the Key: ... line:

Seed: 0X XX XX XX
Manufacture: BFT

Replace the Xs with the digits of the Seed from step 4, save, and copy the file back to the Flipper. You now have an exact clone with the same counter - a few presses push it past the original, and from then on only one of the two works at a time.

No hidden button, or it will not send the Seed

This is only needed for remotes with a unique Seed - a newer remote that already reads as KL: BFT has nothing to recover. If you cannot get the original into programming mode - the pin hole is blocked, the buttons are worn, or the remote is not in your hands for long - get the Seed with the Seed Capturer app instead. Pick BFT Mitto and 433.92 MHz, press one button repeatedly, then recover the Seed in qUnleashed - see Recovering a Seed with the Seed Capturer app for the whole procedure. This one needs the recovery step in qUnleashed, so the programming button route above is faster whenever it works.

CAME Atomo

  • Also sold as: TOP42R / TOP44R / TOP44RGR (806TS-0130)
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> CAME Atomo 433MHz or CAME Atomo 868MHz

Important

When using CAME Atomo from the Flipper, always hold Send for at least 2 seconds. The Flipper transmits only while the key is held, and this protocol needs the time to get the whole code out.

With a remote that already works (or a copy of it on the Flipper)

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Stand at least 3 meters from the receiver
  3. Original remote: press and hold the button that is bound to that receiver - the one you normally use - for about 10 seconds
  4. You now have about 20 seconds to add the new remote
  5. Long press Send on the Flipper in the new remote file for 3-4 sec and release - this registers it
  6. Wait 20 seconds, then press and hold Send again - this should now operate the receiver
  7. Done!

With access to the receiver box

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box and find the programming button for the channel you need. Some receivers have several independent channels - an RE432M / RE862M for example has two, each with its own remotes and buttons. Press 1 or 2 on the receiver board to enter programming mode for that channel
  3. Long press Send on the Flipper for 3-4 sec and release - this registers the new remote
  4. Press CLEAR on the receiver board once to leave programming mode, or just wait ~20 seconds and it leaves by itself
  5. Done!

Note

Static 12/24 bit CAME remotes and CAME TWEE remotes cannot trigger programming mode in the receiver, and they cannot be registered into a programming mode that an Atomo remote opened. Only Atomo remotes can. Static remotes have their own remote-to-remote cloning option, but it needs the first remote to be registered at the receiver board.

Video walkthrough (Russian)

Cardin S449

  • Also sold as: S449 QZ1 / QZ2 / QZ4, TXQ449100 / TXQ449200 - receivers RCQ449
  • Read with: modulation FM12K, not AM650
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Cardin S449 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xD (on the original this is the button in the small hole under the keys)
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Stand 1-2 meters from the receiver
  3. Open the file of the remote that already works, press Right Arrow and release it when the receiver makes a short beep
  4. Press Send on that same remote one time - the receiver makes another short beep
  5. Open your new remote file and press Send - the receiver makes 2 beeps in a row
  6. Release the key - the receiver makes one longer beep
  7. Wait at least 10 seconds, then try the new remote
  8. Done?

If it fails, or if you hear a long beep before step 5, wait 20 seconds and start again from step 3.

DEA Mio

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: DEA Mio 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xF, the hidden button on the original remote
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Send acts as one of the normal buttons of the remote - this is the one you register into the receiver
  3. Right Arrow acts as the hidden button of the original remote
  4. Follow your manufacturer's instructions for adding a new remote, using those two keys in place of the original remote's buttons

Ditec GOL4

  • Also sold as: GOL4 / GOL4C - receivers BIXLG4, BIXLP2, BIXLS2, BIXR2
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Ditec GOL4 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0x0, the hidden button on the original remote
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box, press and release the PRG button - the SIG led lights up and stays on
  3. Press Send on the Flipper for the channel you want to store
  4. The SIG led flashes while storing. When it is steady again you can add another remote
  5. Storing ends 10 seconds after the last remote, or press PRG again to leave straight away
  6. Done?

Note

On some boards a jumper on the receiver has to be set before programming works at all. Check your receiver manual.

DoorHan

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: DoorHan 433MHz or KL: DoorHan 315MHz

Finding your frequency first

DoorHan uses either 315.00 or 433.92 MHz. To find out which, create a DoorHan remote on one of them, open it, press Send and watch the receiver. If you guessed right, the light on the receiver turns on while you hold the key and off when you release it. If nothing happens, try the other frequency.

You can also just read your existing remote in SubGHz -> Read.

With access to the receiver box

Take the protective cover off and look at the buttons on the board:

  • 4 buttons (Radio, Reverse, Auto, ...): press and hold Radio until the led lights up, then press Send on the Flipper 2 times - the led goes out
  • 4 buttons (R, P, +, -) and a display: press R, then press Send on the Flipper 2 times, then wait about 10 seconds
  • 4 buttons (+, -, F, TR) and a display: press TR, then press Send on the Flipper 2 times, then wait about 10 seconds
  • Anything else: press and hold P for about 2 seconds until the led flashes, then press Send on the Flipper 2 times - the led goes out

In all cases, wait until the receiver returns to normal mode before testing.

With an original remote in your hand

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Stand 1-2 meters from the receiver board
  3. On the old remote, press the second button (the lower one), keep holding it and also press the first button (the upper one). Hold both for 1 sec, then release
  4. Press the working button on the old remote - the one you use to open the gate - hold for 1 sec and release
  5. Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other. Do not hold the buttons too long, and do not rush either
  6. The receiver beeps. You now have 10 seconds: press Send on the Flipper's new remote 2 times, holding for at least 1 sec each time
  7. The receiver beeps again - the new remote is registered
  8. Done!

With a copy of your original remote on the Flipper

  1. Open your existing (original) remote file
  2. Stand 1-2 meters from the receiver board
  3. Press Left Arrow (0x8) on the Flipper, hold 1 sec, release. Then press Right Arrow (0xA), hold 1 sec, release
  4. Press the working button - the centre Send key - hold 1 sec and release
  5. Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other. Do not hold too long, and do not rush
  6. The receiver beeps. Press Back, open your new remote file - you have 10 seconds - and press Send 2 times, holding at least 1 sec each time
  7. The receiver beeps again - the new remote is registered
  8. Done!

Video walkthroughs (Russian) and second one

Erreka IRIS (NEW!)

  • Also sold as: IRIS IR02 / IR04 on 433.92 MHz, IR02/868 / IR04/868 on 868.35 MHz
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Erreka 433MHz or Erreka 868MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xF (on the original this means bridging pins 1 and 5 of the 5 way connector, which sits exposed on the side of the remote - no need to open the case)

Erreka IRIS is a Roller Code remote - KeeLoq with a secret Seed. The manufacturer gives two ways to register a new remote, and both work from the Flipper.

Note

Pick the entry that matches your receiver: Erreka 433MHz for IR02 / IR04, Erreka 868MHz for IR02/868 / IR04/868.

With access to the receiver box

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box and activate programming mode - usually a button on the receiver board, check your receiver manual
  3. Press Send on the Flipper one time - the receiver beeps twice if the remote was stored
  4. Repeat step 3 for any other remotes you want to add
  5. Turn programming mode off on the receiver when you are done
  6. Done!

With a remote that already works

The original IRIS opens the programming window by bridging pins 1 and 5 of the 5 way connector exposed on the side of the case - that makes it transmit its Seed in the clear, and the receiver answers with a single beep. On the Flipper the same thing is just the Right Arrow, no wires needed.

The remote that opens the window has to be one the receiver already knows. That means either the first Flipper remote you registered with the receiver button above, or your original remote with its Seed recovered (see below).

  1. Open the file of the Erreka remote that is already registered
  2. Long press Right Arrow (0xF - Btn:F) for ~2 sec - the receiver beeps once, it is ready to store codes
  3. You have 10 seconds: press Back and open your new remote file
  4. Press Send - the receiver beeps twice if the remote was stored
  5. If 10 seconds pass with nothing stored, the receiver leaves programming mode. Start again from step 2
  6. Done?

If the new remote will not register

Some installations give every remote the same Seed - the installer programmed them as a set. On those, a remote with a freshly generated random Seed is never accepted, no matter how exactly you follow the procedure above.

The fix is to keep the existing Seed and change only the serial, so you get a genuinely new remote that still belongs to the installation:

  1. Get the Seed off a remote that already works - either way below
  2. Create the remote with SubGHz -> Add Manually [Advanced] -> Erreka 433MHz (or Erreka 868MHz) and enter:
    • SERIAL - 0X XX XX XX, any value that is not one of your existing remotes. Keep the leading 0 - that nibble is the button, which the Advanced screen asks for separately
    • BUTTON - 02
    • COUNTER - 00 02
    • SEED - the Seed from step 1
  3. Run the registration procedure again, either one

Tip

Keep the leading zeros in the serial. Some systems have turned up using only the bottom 3 or 4 digits of the serial, so their remotes look like 00 00 0A BC rather than a full length number. If your installation is one of those, a long random serial may simply be refused.

Read one of your working remotes first and copy the shape of its serial - same number of significant digits, leading zeros kept - and only change the last digits to make it unique.

Tip

If two of your original remotes read with the same Seed once you have recovered it, that is this kind of installation, and reusing the Seed is the right move rather than a workaround.

Getting the Seed off your original IRIS remote

Erreka cannot be decoded without the Seed - a normal button press from an original remote reads as KL: Unknown until you know it. There are two ways to get it.

Option 1 - by shorting the pins and reading it. This is the quick one, the remote transmits the Seed in the clear, and the pins are on the outside of the case so nothing has to be taken apart:

  1. Open SubGHz -> Read, set the frequency to 433.92 or 868.35 and the modulation to AM650
  2. Bridge pins 1 and 5 of the 5 way connector on the side of your original IRIS remote
  3. You receive a signal. The manufacturer will show as Unknown - that is expected, not an error. The Flipper cannot name the manufacturer yet precisely because it does not know the Seed
  4. Open the signal and look at Fix: - it starts with F, the button code meaning "programming button pressed"
  5. The Hop: value of that signal is your Seed, in the clear
  6. From here you can either type it into Add Manually [Advanced] as above, or turn the captured signal into a working file: save it, copy it to a PC and add these two lines after the Key: ... line:
Seed: 0X XX XX XX
Manufacture: Erreka

Replace the Xs with the digits of the Seed from step 5, save, and copy the file back to the Flipper. It decodes now, and you can use it to open the programming window for new remotes.

Option 2 - with the Seed Capturer app, when you cannot bridge the pins or the remote has no connector. Pick Erreka and your frequency and press one button repeatedly - see Recovering a Seed with the Seed Capturer app for the whole procedure. This one needs a recovery step in qUnleashed afterwards, so option 1 is faster whenever you can reach the pins.

FAAC RC, XT

  • Also sold as: XT2 / XT4 433 RC / 868 RC, and the older RC coding
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: FAAC RC,XT 433MHz or KL: FAAC RC,XT 868MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xB (on the original this is buttons 1+2 held together, the "master" press)

Important

These are KeeLoq, not SLH. Read your remote first: if the Flipper calls it KL: FAAC_RC,XT you are in the right place. If it says FAAC SLH, use FAAC SLH instead.

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Stand close to the receiver
  3. Open the file of the remote that already works, press Right Arrow and hold until the original remote's led would start flashing, about 1-2 sec, then release
  4. While the window is open, press Send on that same remote for the button you want to copy
  5. Open your new remote file and press Send
  6. Repeat steps 3-5 for every other button you want
  7. Done?

Note

Only a master remote can hand its system code over. On an original remote you can tell them apart by the led - a short blink before it goes steady means master, steady straight away means slave. A slave cannot be used for this, so with a slave you have to register the new remote at the receiver instead.

FAAC SLH

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> FAAC SLH 433MHz or FAAC SLH 868MHz
  • Programming key: Up Arrow sends the programming signal

With access to the receiver box

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box and find the programming button on the receiver board
  3. Hold Up Arrow on the Flipper to send the programming signal, and at the same time press and hold the programming button on the receiver board
  4. The led on the receiver board goes on, off, on, off, then on again
  5. Release everything
  6. Press Send on the Flipper a couple of times, holding each press for 1-3 seconds
  7. Done!

Video walkthrough

With a master remote - no need to open the box

FAAC has a procedure for registering new remotes from an existing master remote, and the Flipper can take part in it. First you read the Seed off the master.

  1. Open SubGHz -> Read, set the frequency to 868.35 or 433.92 and the modulation to AM650
  2. Hold two buttons on the original master remote until its led turns on
  3. Click the one button you want the Seed for. The Seed is different for every button on the original remote
  4. You receive a signal on the read screen. Open it and read the Seed for the button you used
  5. Create the remote: SubGHz -> Add Manually [Advanced] -> FAAC SLH 433MHz (or 868), then enter:
    • SERIAL - 0A 0R RR RR, replacing each R with any digit you like
    • BUTTON - 06
    • COUNTER - 00 00 00 02
    • SEED - the Seed you read in step 4
  6. The Flipper now acts as a new remote. Press Send a couple of times near the receiver to register it
  7. Done!

If neither of those is possible

Two situations leave you stuck:

  • The receiver's remote programming is disabled. Some installers switch it off, and then nothing you send will register a new remote
  • Your remote is a slave, not a master. Only a master can transmit the programming code. On an original remote, press any button and watch the led - a short blink before it goes steady means master, steady straight away means slave

In both cases the only remaining route is a clone of a remote the receiver already knows, and that needs the Seed. Get it with the Seed Capturer app, then build the clone with the original remote's SERIAL and BUTTON instead of your own.

Tip

SERIAL and BUTTON together make up the Fix value you see when reading a signal, and where the button sits inside Fix depends on the protocol:

  • FAAC SLH and Genius: BUTTON is the last digit of Fix. SERIAL is the rest, with a 0 put in front.
  • KeeLoq protocols (BFT, Erreka, DoorHan, Cardin and the other KL: entries): BUTTON is the first digit of Fix. SERIAL is that same Fix with the first digit replaced by 0.

Genius (SLH)

  • Also sold as: Echo TX2 433 SLH / Echo TX4 433 SLH / KILO TX2 / TX4 / JLC / Amigo
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Genius 433MHz or Genius 868MHz
  • Programming key: Up Arrow sends the programming signal

Genius SLH is the same frame as FAAC SLH with its own manufacturer key, so the FAAC SLH procedures apply exactly as written - both the receiver button one and the master remote one.

  1. Create the remote from the Genius entry for your frequency
  2. Follow the FAAC SLH steps

If the receiver's remote programming is disabled, or your remote is a slave and cannot send the programming code, the Seed route applies here too - capture it with the Seed Capturer app (pick Genius) and follow If neither of those is possible under FAAC SLH.

Important

Do not confuse this with KL: Genius TX4RC 433M.. The RC models are KeeLoq, not SLH, and they have their own section. If you are not sure which you have, read the remote first and see what the Flipper calls it.

Genius TX4RC (Bravo / Echo)

  • Also sold as: Echo TX2 433 RC / Echo TX4 433 RC / TE443H Bravo
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Genius TX4RC 433M.
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xB, the programming mode button of the original remote
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box and press SW1 for channel 1 or SW2 for channel 2 - LED1 / LED2 lights up and stays on, that is learning mode
  3. Within 10 seconds press Send on the Flipper and hold for at least 1 sec
  4. The led blinks twice - the remote is stored
  5. The receiver stays in learning mode, so you can add more remotes by repeating step 3. Press SW1 / SW2 again to leave, or it leaves by itself 10 seconds after the last remote
  6. Done?

Hormann EcoStar

  • Also sold as: RSC2 / RSE2 / RSZ1 on 433.92 MHz - EcoStar Liftronic / Portronic drives
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Hor. EcoStar 433MHz
  • Programming key: Down Arrow = 0x6 - note this one is on Down, not Right
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Find the clear programming button on the drive, usually underneath the motor, and hold it for ~1 sec - the indicator led on the motor starts flashing slowly
  3. Press Send on the Flipper and hold for ~2 sec - the motor led speeds up
  4. Press Send again and hold for ~2 sec - the motor led flashes very fast then goes out. The remote is programmed
  5. Done?

Warning

Holding that clear button for ~5 seconds erases every remote the drive knows, not just one.

Jarolift

  • Also sold as: TDEF radio tube motors - TDRC / TDRCE remotes
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Jarolift 433MHz

The keys are already mapped to the original remote's buttons:

Flipper key Jarolift button
Send Down
Left Arrow Up
Down Arrow Stop
Up Arrow Learn (0x1)

Learn is a single code. On the original remote you produce it by holding Up + Down together and then pressing Stop - on the Flipper it is one key press.

With access to the motor head

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press the learning button on the motor head - the motor vibrates briefly, it is now in learning mode for 5 seconds
  3. If you cannot reach that button, disconnect the motor from the mains and reconnect it - it enters learning mode automatically for 5 seconds
  4. Within those 5 seconds press Up Arrow (Learn) on the Flipper
  5. The motor vibrates again - the code was learned
  6. Done!

With a remote that already works

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. On the already working remote, hold Up + Down together, then press Stop 8 times - the motor vibrates briefly
  3. Within 5 seconds press Up Arrow (Learn) on the Flipper
  4. The motor vibrates again - the code was learned
  5. Done?

Tip

If the already working remote is also on your Flipper, step 2 is just Up Arrow (Learn) on that remote's file.

KingGates Stylo 4k

  • Also sold as: Stylo 2K / Stylo 4K (10S001) - receivers Fred, Myo
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KingGates Stylo4k 433M.

There is no separate programming button on this one. The four keys are simply the four channels of the original remote:

Flipper key Channel code
Send 0xE
Up Arrow 0xD
Down Arrow 0xB
Left Arrow 0x7
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the receiver box. On a Fred 2 channel receiver the led colour tells you the channel - green is channel 1, red is channel 2
  3. Press the receiver button once for channel 1 (green) or twice for channel 2 (red) - this starts learning mode
  4. Within 5 seconds press Send on the Flipper for ~1 sec
  5. The led turns off then on again - the remote was learned
  6. Learning mode ends after 5 seconds with no signal, or press the receiver button again to leave
  7. Done?

Mhouse

  • Also sold as: GTX4 / GTX4C / TX3 / TX4 - also Moovo and Nice Home ECCO
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Mhouse 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xF, the extra (hidden) button of the original remote

With access to the receiver box

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press and hold the P1 button on the receiver until the P1 led stays on, then release
  3. Press Send on the Flipper and hold until the P1 led flashes 3 times
  4. Release the key. This registers all buttons of the remote at once (Nice "mode 1")
  5. Wait 10 seconds before testing the new remote
  6. Done?

With a remote that already works

Mhouse is the same Nice receiver family as Nice Smilo, so the procedure is the same:

  1. Stand close to the receiver
  2. Open your new remote file, press and hold Send for at least 5 sec, then release
  3. On the already working remote, press and slowly release its button 3 times
  4. Open your new remote file again, press Send for 1 sec and release
  5. Wait 10 seconds before testing the new remote
  6. Done?

Nice Flor S

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Nice FloR-S 433MHz

With a remote that already works

You do not need the receiver for this, but the very first remote always has to be registered with the receiver button. You need one remote that is already authorised. Below, OLD is the authorised remote and NEW is the Flipper. Stand within 3 m of the gate or garage receiver.

  1. Open your new remote file, press and hold Send for at least 5 seconds - 7 seconds on an OXIBD receiver - then release
  2. On the OLD remote, press its button 3 times slowly
  3. Press Send on the Flipper slowly, then release
  4. Wait 10 seconds, then press Send to test that it opens your gate or garage
  5. Done?

With access to the receiver box

Your new remote registers exactly as your original remote's instructions describe, so use your own manual. For a typical NICE FLOX2R receiver it goes like this:

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press the learning button on the receiver for 1-2 seconds. The led turns on for 5 seconds - do the next step inside those 5 seconds
  3. Press Send on the Flipper until the led on the receiver turns off
  4. Release the key and wait 2 seconds
  5. Press Send again. The led on the receiver flashes 3 times - the remote is registered. If it does not, start over from step 2
  6. Wait 5 seconds, then press Send to test that it opens your gate or garage
  7. Done!

Nice One

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Nice One 433MHz

Nice One is the Nice FloR-S family with different keying, and the receiver side is identical - both Nice Flor S procedures apply exactly as written.

  1. Create the remote from the Nice One 433MHz entry
  2. Follow the Nice Flor S steps

Tip

If your remote reads as FloR-S but the counter looks wrong, it may be Nice O-Code instead - see below.

Nice O-Code

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Nice O-Code 433MHz
  • Create it on an installed system: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Advanced -> Nice O-Code 433MHz, which asks for the installer code as well
  • Create it with a certificate: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Nice O-Code+Crt 433MHz, which asks for the installer code and the receiver's certificate

O-Code is Nice FloR-S keyed with a 16 bit installer code (IC), one value shared by every remote of an installation. The receiver side is identical to FloR-S, so both Nice Flor S procedures apply exactly as written - but a remote only reaches a receiver that was set up with the same installer code.

That leaves two ways round:

  • For a system of your own, the plain Nice O-Code 433MHz entry makes up an installer code along with the serial - but a factory receiver will not take it at the button, so register a plain Nice One remote first (see the note below).
  • For a system that is already installed, the remote has to carry that installation's installer code. Recover it from a remote that already works with the Nice O-Code app (Apps -> Sub-GHz): press the remote's button 4 or more times, do not hold it, and the app brute forces the code out of the captures. Then either
    • press Right (New) on the app's result screen, which writes a remote with that same installer code and button but a serial and counter of its own - the one to register with the receiver, and
    • press Save for a plain clone of the remote you captured, useful for testing but it fights your original over the counter, or
    • enter the code by hand under Add Manually -> Advanced if you already know it.

Note

Tested on a factory-fresh OXIBD: in mode I the receiver ignores O-Code frames completely - no led flash, nothing memorised - whatever installer code they carry, while a plain Nice One remote is memorised at once. The installer code lives in the receiver too and only an O-Box writes it there, so on an untouched receiver the plain Nice Flor S / Nice One entries are the ones that register at the button. The O-Code entries are for an installation an installer has already keyed.

Tip

COUNTER is a plain count of presses and the Flipper advances it by one per press, the same as an original Nice remote. The receiver refuses any count behind the one it last stored for that serial, and it also refuses one that sits implausibly far behind the remotes it already knows - even for a serial it has never seen. So do not leave COUNTER near zero. Set it close to, and a little below, the count your working remote is on; the Nice O-Code app's New does that for you. Do not set it far above, in case the receiver keeps one count for the whole installation. If you have already sent frames from that serial, type a COUNTER a little above the highest you sent.

The app can also work from a file instead of the air: Decode RAW file on its menu reads a RAW .sub you captured earlier and runs the same recovery on it.

The certificate, and the 112 bit frame

A Nice installer can enrol a remote without touching the receiver at all, by loading the receiver's certificate into the remote with an O-Box. The certificate is a per-receiver secret that ships as a sealed coupon in the receiver's box; it has nothing to do with the installer code, and knowing one tells you nothing about the other.

A remote carrying a certificate sends a longer 112 bit frame - an ordinary 72 bit frame with the certificate appended - mixed in among its normal frames, and only for its first twenty uses. On air the certificate is masked with the sending remote's own serial, so two remotes of the same gate carry the same secret behind two different numbers; the Flipper shows and stores the receiver's own value and does the masking itself. The receiver enrols the remote on its own while that is going on, after which the remote drops to 72 bit frames and stays there forever.

Reading a certificate off a remote. Capture a remote that is still inside its twenty uses with the Nice O-Code app. Un-masking needs the remote's serial, so the certificate only appears once the app has brute forced the installer code - it then shows it next to the code and writes it into the remote you save with New. SubGHz -> Read marks the frame as 112 bit but cannot show the certificate without that code.

Making a remote that enrols itself. Use Add Manually -> Nice O-Code+Crt 433MHz. It asks for the serial, button and counter, then the installer code, then the certificate - the receiver's own, the same six digits for every remote you make for that gate. Easier still, let the Nice O-Code app do all of it: capture a remote that already works, then press Right (New), which fills in the installer code, the certificate and a sensible counter by itself.

Then, in range of the gate:

  1. Open the file and press the key. Nothing happens. That is normal.
  2. Keep pressing, about once a second, ten to fifteen times. The gate opens somewhere around the tenth press - that is the receiver deciding it has heard enough.
  3. After it opens once it is registered for good. Every press from then on works immediately, and it keeps working long after the twenty certificate uses are gone.

Important

Two presses is not a failed test. The receiver wants roughly ten before it enrols a remote this way, and the certificate only goes out for the first twenty presses - so if you stop at five and come back tomorrow you have spent five of your twenty for nothing. Do the ten to fifteen in one sitting. If all twenty are used up without the gate opening, the remote can never enrol itself; delete it and make a new one.

Note

A certificate only helps if it is that receiver's own. There is no way to read one off the air from a receiver, and a remote that has used up its twenty transmissions no longer sends it.

The five ways Nice registers a remote

For reference, so you can tell which one your installer used:

  1. Mode I - hold the receiver key, then any key on the new remote within 10 s; 3 green flashes.
  2. Mode II - press the receiver key N times for command N, then the chosen key on the remote.
  3. "In the vicinity" - needs a remote that already works, 10-20 m from the receiver. New remote: hold a key at least 5 s (7 s on OXIBD); old remote: press 3x; new remote: press 1x. On from the factory, and can be locked out. This is the one the Flipper does in the Nice Flor S steps above.
  4. Enable-code transfer - two O-Code remotes held touching each other, receiver not involved. The new remote then broadcasts the enable code for its first twenty uses and the receiver enrols it by itself.
  5. Certificate - as described above, from anywhere. A receiver holds 4 certificate slots; slots 2-4 let one certificate cover a whole group of receivers.

Paths 4 and 5 run over the remote's near-field proximity link, not over 433 MHz - only the result is on air, which is why the Flipper can reproduce path 5 but not the pairing itself. The installer code is written the same way, by O-Box only; a receiver never teaches its installer code to a remote, and a transmitter factory reset ("All Original") does not clear it.

Reading the receiver's LED

From the OXI/A manual (IS0242A00MM, Table A). Most Nice receivers of this generation use the same codes:

LED meaning
6 long green code synchronisation failure - recoverable, press twice
3 short green code was re-synchronised
2 long red code with lower priority than the one authorised (permanent)
1 long red non-original code block
1 long green code not in memory
6 green cannot memorise, "incorrect key" - the installer code does not match
2 short green cannot memorise, the remote is transmitting a certificate
8 green memory full - 1024 slots, and nothing is overwritten

Counter window, and what can lock a remote out

The forward accept window is called "Rnd window", default 100, settable 5-250 on BM-memory (FLOR generation) receivers; the O-Code panel only exposes it as on/off. Anything behind the stored value is never accepted. Resync is automatic but needs two presses in a row - the first stores, the second operates - unless Synchronism is switched off, in which case only re-registering the remote brings it back.

There is no clone or duplicate detection in the O-Code system. The two things that can lock a remote out for good are Priority (0..3, on from the factory), where a remote presenting a higher priority permanently supersedes the same ID at a lower one, and the non-original code block, a marker the O-Box sets when it rewrites an ID - a replay of a genuine ID does not trip it.

Nice Smilo

  • Also sold as: SM2 / SM4 - receivers SMXI, SMXIS, OXI set to Smilo coding
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> KL: Nice Smilo 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0xB, the extra (hidden) button of the original remote

Nice receivers can store a remote in one of two modes. Mode I gives each remote button the matching receiver output - button 1 works output 1, button 2 works output 2. Mode II lets you pick which output a single button controls.

With access to the receiver box - mode I

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press and hold the button on the receiver for at least 3 sec
  3. Release it when the led lights up
  4. Within 10 seconds press Send on the Flipper and hold for at least 2 sec
  5. The led on the receiver flashes 3 times - the remote is stored
  6. To add more remotes, repeat step 4 within another 10 seconds. Otherwise the phase ends by itself
  7. Done!

With access to the receiver box - mode II

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press the button on the receiver as many times as the output you want - twice for output 2, for example
  3. Check that the led flashes that same number of times
  4. Within 10 seconds press the Flipper key you want to bind to that output and hold for at least 2 sec
  5. The led on the receiver flashes 3 times - the remote is stored
  6. Done!

With a remote that already works

You do not need the receiver box, but the first remote always has to be registered with the receiver button. The new remote inherits the mode of the old one, so if the old one was stored in mode II you have to press the matching buttons on both remotes.

  1. Stand close to the receiver
  2. Open your new remote file, press and hold Send for at least 5 sec, then release
  3. On the already working remote, press and slowly release its button 3 times
  4. Open your new remote file again and press and slowly release Send one time
  5. Done?

Note

These receivers cannot delete one single remote - only all of them at once.

Security+ 1.0 / 2.0 (Chamberlain, LiftMaster, Craftsman)

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Security+2.0 or Security+1.0 with your frequency

Which one do you have? The colour of the Learn button on the motor head tells you:

Learn button Create this
Yellow Security+2.0
Purple Security+1.0 315MHz
Green Security+1.0 390MHz
Red / orange Billion Code - not Security+
Grey / white dip switch remote - not Security+
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Find the Learn button on the motor head - usually on the back or the side panel, sometimes behind the light lens
  3. Press and release it once. The learn indicator led glows steadily for 30 seconds
  4. Within those 30 seconds, press and hold Send on the Flipper
  5. Release it when the motor lights flash or you hear two clicks - the remote is programmed
  6. Press Send again to check the door moves
  7. Done?

Tip

If the button on the motor head will not cooperate, some systems let you program from the wall console instead.

Somfy Keytis

  • Also sold as: Keytis NS 2 RTS / KeyGo 4 RTS
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Somfy Keytis 433MHz (this is 433.42 MHz, not 433.92)
  • Programming key: Up Arrow = 0x3 - Prog (Send is Key_1)

On an original Keytis there is no Prog key on the front - you have to bridge the two pads marked PROG on the back of the board with a screwdriver. The Flipper just needs the Up Arrow.

With access to the receiver

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Press and hold the PROG button on the receiver for ~3 sec, until it blinks
  3. Press Up Arrow (Prog) on the Flipper
  4. The blind or gate moves briefly up and down - the remote is registered
  5. Done?

With a remote that already works

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Put the already registered remote into programming mode until the blind or gate moves briefly up and down. On an original Keytis that means bridging the PROG pads on the back of the board. On the Flipper it is Up Arrow
  3. Open your new remote file and press Up Arrow (Prog) until the blind or gate moves briefly up and down again
  4. Done?

Warning

On many Somfy receivers, holding the programming button for more than ~7 seconds erases every remote and sensor the receiver knows.

Note

Keytis uses the newer NS radio protocol. An older non-NS RTS receiver will not accept it until the remote's protocol is switched over - see Somfy's own documentation for your receiver.

Somfy Telis

  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> Somfy Telis 433MHz (this is 433.42 MHz, not 433.92)
  • Programming key: Left Arrow = 0x8 - Prog
  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Long press the Prog button on a remote that is already registered to the device, until the blinds move briefly up and down
  3. Press and hold Left Arrow (Prog) on the Flipper, until the blinds move briefly up and down again
  4. Done?

Sommer

  • Also sold as: TX03-868-4 / TX03-868-2 (SOMloq) - Pearl, Duo, Sprint, Marathon drives
  • Read with: modulation FM12K or FM476, whichever one decodes your remote
  • Create it: pick the entry that matches how your remote read - the fm2 entries are the FM12K ones, the plain KL: Sommer entries are FM476:
    • KL: Sommer fm2 868Mhz / KL: Sommer fm2 434Mhz for FM12K
    • KL: Sommer 868MHz / KL: Sommer 434MHz for FM476
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0x6

With access to the receiver

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Find the learn / code button on the receiver. Where it lives depends on the drive - under the light cover on a Duo, behind the switch box cover on a Sprint, under a clear plastic cover next to the code button on a Marathon
  3. Press it briefly - the receiver led lights up
  4. Press Send on the Flipper and hold it. The receiver led starts blinking fast - release the key then
  5. The receiver led goes out - the remote is programmed
  6. Done?

On a sliding gate operator

Press the Radio button on the control unit instead - a red led confirms programming mode. Press it again to pick the channel, then hold Send on the Flipper until the channel led flashes and goes dark. The receiver leaves programming mode by itself after ~30 seconds with no signal.

V2 Phoenix (Phox)

  • Also sold as: Phoenix 2/4, Phox 2/4, Handy 2/4, TXC2-4, TRC2-4, TSC2-4 - receivers RXP, MR2
  • Create it: SubGHz -> Add Manually -> V2 Phoenix 433MHz
  • Programming key: Right Arrow = 0x3 - on the original remote this is buttons 1+2 (or 1+3) held together

Important

This mapping has not been confirmed by anyone yet. If it does not work, register the remote at the receiver button instead and let us know in the issues tab.

With a remote that already works

  1. Open your new remote file
  2. Open the file of the remote that is already registered, press Right Arrow and hold for at least 5 sec, then release
  3. Within 5 seconds, open your new remote file and press Send
  4. Release it. Repeat for any other buttons you want to store
  5. Done?

The remote that starts this has to be stored in the receiver already. Everything stored this way inherits the logic of the remote that opened the window - if that one only had button 1 stored, the new remotes can only be stored on button 1.

Note

Some V2 receivers have an option to enable Static mode, which makes them ignore the rolling part of the key.

Recovering a Seed with the Seed Capturer app

FAAC SLH, Genius, Erreka and BFT Mitto all build their rolling code from a secret per-installation Seed. Without it the Flipper cannot decode those remotes at all - a normal button press reads as KL: Unknown or will not decode - and it cannot build a remote the receiver will accept.

The Seed Capturer app collects the raw material a Seed recovery needs. It does not recover the Seed itself and it never transmits anything - it only listens and writes a file.

Why you would want it

  • The receiver's remote programming is switched off. Some installers disable radio programming on the receiver. Then no amount of button pressing registers a new remote, and a clone of a remote the receiver already knows is the only way in. A clone needs the Seed
  • Your remote is a slave, not a master. On FAAC and Genius only a master remote can transmit the programming code that opens the window for new remotes. A slave cannot, so the master-remote procedure is simply unavailable to you. Again, a clone is the way, and a clone needs the Seed
  • You cannot get at the receiver. It is walled in, in a locked box, or not yours to open
  • Erreka with a shared Seed. See Erreka IRIS - some installations give every remote the same Seed, and a new remote has to reuse it
  • Older BFT Mitto without a working programming button. See BFT Mitto - newer remotes decode in a normal Read, older ones have a unique Seed that is normally read in the clear from programming mode, and this is the way when that is not possible

How to use it

  1. Open Apps -> Sub-GHz -> Seed Capturer
  2. Pick New capture
  3. Pick your remote type - FAAC SLH, Genius, Erreka or BFT Mitto
  4. Pick your frequency - 433.92 MHz AM650 or 868.35 MHz AM650 (BFT Mitto offers only 433.92 MHz)
  5. Press the same button on the same remote, over and over. Roughly once a second is fine
  6. Watch the screen fill in:
    • Fix - the remote's fixed part. The app locks onto the first one it hears and ignores everything else
    • Hops n/10 - how many different rolling parts it has collected, and the raw packet count next to it
    • the status line shows Hop n: XXXXXXXX each time a new one lands
  7. Once you have at least 2 hops, Save appears on the centre key. Press it
  8. The app tells you the file name it wrote
  9. The Flipper's part is done here - it does not recover the Seed itself. Connect the Flipper to the qUnleashed companion app and run its Seed recovery tool: it reads the captures straight off the Flipper and does the actual search. Nothing has to be copied anywhere
  10. Enter that Seed back on the Flipper, see Once you have the Seed below

Reading the screen

What you see What it means
Hop n: XXXXXXXX a new rolling part was stored, keep pressing
Other remote XXXXXXXX that press came from a different remote or a different button, and was ignored
Have 10, enough the app is full, press Save
Press remote 2+ times nothing collected yet

Press Left (Reset) to throw the capture away and lock onto a different remote or button.

How many presses

Two hops is the minimum to save. More is better - every extra hop narrows the search down and makes it finish faster. Collect 5-10 if the remote is in your hand.

What matters as much as the count is that they are consecutive presses with nothing missed. The recovery works on an unbroken run of the counter, so a press that never reached the Flipper leaves a gap and the search will find nothing. Keep the remote next to the Flipper and watch that the Hops counter moves on every single press.

Where the file goes

/ext/apps_data/subghz_seed_captures/, named <Type>_<Fix>_<date-time>.txt, for example Erreka_F00F1C9B_261008-142233.txt. It is a plain text file holding the manufacturer, protocol, frequency, preset, the Fix and every Hop in the order they arrived.

Recovering the Seed in qUnleashed

The capture file is only the input. The Seed itself is found by the recovery tool inside qUnleashed, the companion app for phone and PC. You do not copy, move, rename or edit any files - qUnleashed fetches the captures from the Flipper's subghz_seed_captures folder by itself:

  1. Connect the Flipper to qUnleashed and go to its Seed recovery tool
  2. Pick your capture from the list it shows - the manufacturer, frequency, Fix and Hop list are all already in the file, so there is nothing to fill in
  3. Start the search and wait. It is a brute force search, which is exactly why it runs there and not on the Flipper
  4. If it finds the Seed, it can save the whole clone remote for you. The search hands back the Seed and the counter, and the Fix from the capture already carries the serial and the button - that is everything a .sub file needs, so qUnleashed composes the finished clone file itself and you put it back on the Flipper and send it. No Add Manually typing, no values to copy down
  5. If it does not find one, it says so - the Seed was not found. See the TIP below

Tip

If it finds nothing, the capture most likely had a gap in it. The search needs an unbroken run of presses, so capture again and be precise about it: hold the remote right next to the Flipper, press the same button and nothing else, one steady press at a time, and check the Hops counter moves on every press. If a press does not register, hit Reset (Left) and start the capture over instead of carrying on.

Important

The Seed belongs to the installation, not to one button. On FAAC SLH and Genius the Seed is different for every button on the original remote, so capture the button you actually intend to use. On Erreka the Seed is per remote, and sometimes per whole installation. On BFT Mitto the Seed is per remote - newer remotes make it from the serial and need no capture at all, only older ones with a unique Seed do.

Once you have the Seed

  • To make a new remote (needs the receiver to accept new remotes): SubGHz -> Add Manually [Advanced], pick your type, and enter your own SERIAL with the recovered SEED
  • To make a clone (works without any programming, because the receiver already knows that serial): let qUnleashed save the clone file for you at the end of the recovery, as above - it already has the serial, button, counter and Seed. By hand instead: enter the original remote's SERIAL and BUTTON, the recovered SEED, and a COUNTER a little above the original's current value

Caution

A clone shares the counter with the original remote, so the two fight over it - whichever you pressed last works and the other needs several presses to catch up. Only clone when making a new remote is not possible.

Programming / hidden button reference

Lots of receivers are programmed by pressing a button the original remote does not show you - a recessed pin hole, two buttons held together, pads you bridge inside the case. The Flipper sends those codes as one single key press.

How to use this table: find the "put the receiver into programming mode" step in your own manufacturer's manual, then press the key from this table in place of whatever the manual tells you to press on the original remote.

Note

These are the keys on a remote as Add Manually creates it. If you change the button code by hand in the signal settings, the keys move with it.

System (name in the Add Manually menu) Code Key on the Flipper What it is on the original remote
FAAC SLH 433/868MHz, Genius 433/868MHz - Up Arrow the programming signal
BFT Mitto 433MHz 0xF Right Arrow pin hole on the back, or buttons 1+2 held
Erreka 433MHz, Erreka 868MHz 0xF Right Arrow pins 1 and 5 of the 5 way connector bridged (exposed on the side of the case)
KL: DEA Mio 433MHz 0xF Right Arrow hidden button
KL: Aprimatic 433MHz 0xF Right Arrow all 4 buttons held together
KL: Mhouse 433MHz 0xF Right Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: Nice Smilo 433MHz 0xB Right Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: FAAC RC,XT 433/868MHz 0xB Right Arrow buttons 1+2 held (master press)
KL: Genius TX4RC 433M. 0xB Right Arrow programming mode button
KL: Monarch 433MHz 0xB no arrow sends it set the button code by hand in signal settings
KL: Novoferm 433MHz 0x9 Right Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: Stilmatic 433MHz 0x9 Right Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: Sommer 434/868MHz and fm2 0x6 Right Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: Hor. EcoStar 433MHz 0x6 Down Arrow extra / hidden button
KL: Cardin S449 433MHz 0xD Right Arrow button in the hole under the keys
AN-Motors AT4 433MHz 0xC Right Arrow extra / hidden button
Beninca ARC 433MHz 0x0 Down Arrow hidden button (buttons 1+2 held)
Ditec GOL4 433MHz 0x0 Right Arrow hidden button
Jarolift 433MHz 0x1 Up Arrow Learn - Up+Down held, then Stop
Somfy Telis 433MHz 0x8 Left Arrow Prog button
Somfy Keytis 433MHz 0x3 Up Arrow Prog pads on the back of the board
V2 Phoenix 433MHz 0x3 Right Arrow buttons 1+2 or 1+3 held (unconfirmed)
Nice FloR-S / Nice One / Nice O-Code 433MHz 0x3 Right Arrow button 3 (unconfirmed as a programming button)

Everything else in the menu

Anything not in this table and without a section above is registered the plain way: put the receiver into learning mode with its own button, then press Send on the Flipper inside the time window your manufacturer gives.

That covers most KeeLoq systems - Comunello, Allmatic, Motorline, Centurion, Phantom/Hiland, KEY, Jolly Motors, IronLogic, DTM Neo, Gibidi, GSN, HomeGate, Elmes, Normstahl, JCM Tech, Pujol, ET Blue, ATA PTX4, Seav, Wisniowski, Fadini, Mc Garcia, Clemsa Mutancode, Doormatic, Elvox, Verex, CAME Space, Beninca KeeLoq, Superrollo, HCS101 - and every static protocol, such as CAME, Nice Flo, Marantec, Princeton, Prastel, Roger, Telcoma EDGE, Gate TX, BETT, Nord ICE, Revers RB2, Linear, Nero and ZKTeco.

When it does not work

Nothing happens at all. Check the frequency first - it is the most common mistake. Read your original remote in SubGHz -> Read and compare. Some brands sell the same remote on two frequencies (DoorHan on 315 and 433.92, FAAC and Genius on 433.92 and 868.35).

Wrong modulation. Most systems here are AM650, but a few are not - Cardin S449 is FM12K, Sommer is FM12K or FM476. Set it in SubGHz -> Read -> Config.

The receiver reacts but never stores the remote. You are probably missing the time window. Re-read the steps and have the remote file already open before you touch the receiver button.

It stored the remote but nothing opens. Hold Send longer. The Flipper transmits only while a key is held, and several protocols need 1-3 seconds to get a full code out. CAME Atomo needs at least 2 seconds every time.

It worked once and then stopped. On a rolling code system that is a counter problem, and it means you cloned a remote instead of making a new one. Press Send a few more times in a row - the receiver accepts a counter that ran ahead, within a window. If you want both remotes working at the same time, create a new remote instead of cloning. This cannot happen on a static code remote, where there is no counter at all - if a static remote stops working, look at the battery, the frequency, or the receiver.

All of your remotes stopped working. You most likely held a programming button long enough to trigger the receiver's erase function. Re-register every remote, originals included.

Sources and further reading

Docs made for Unleashed FW, please mention the source when copying

Reference in new issue View Git Blame Copy Permalink